Cite Bourgogne
'The lane compounds of old Shanghai present myriad images rather than a single one. Those so-called shikumen, or stone-framed door, houses are the most somber of all. They retain the aloof air of the quadruple compound, which is visible apparent from their walls and doors. Entering the doorway, you can walk through the courtyard and the sitting room-both are rather small-in just a few paces. Then a wooden staircase rises immediately at one side. It leads straight up to the wing room on the second floor, which faces the street or lane passages. The lane compounds in east Shanghai, however, have a more cozy appearance. To complement the iron door, a balcony that projects out of the facade enables you to admire a view of the street. The wayward boughs of the oleander are allowed to stretch over the wall of the yard, reflecting the spirit of spring. But a sense of vigilance remains there: the German-made spring lock, the window grills and the sharp projections on the top of the iron door all testify to that. The yard is guarded by the wall and the building: It seems that such a layout is designed for an easy entry but a difficult exit. In the apartment building compounds in the west of the city, each suite is a self-contained unit, where a closed door can safely keep anyone from entry. The soundproofed walls can prevent you from being heard from outside. The passages between the rows of buildings are wide enough to prevent you from being seen from a neighboring building. The overall layout is calculated to protect your privacy. In the contented isolation you can do whatever you want, free from any external intrusion.'
Above is an excerpt from The Song of Eternal Sorrow, a classic novel that Wang Anyi authored in 1996. Bugaoli is one of the few remaining Shi Ku Men style buildings in Shanghai. Shi Ku Men style buildings are stone arched houses built closely together in a mixed style of East and West. These century-old buildings used to be the most typical housing for the middle class. Now they are quickly being replaced by brand new skyscrapers.
Bugaoli was built in 1930 by the French in the French Concession (colonial section). It was named 'Cite Bourgogne' by the French, and hence its Chinese name Bu-Gao-Li. Bugaoli is located at the corner of South Shan Xi Rd and Middle Jian Guo Rd. It was designed to accommondate 78 families, and it is currently occupied by 450 households, which is a reflection of the population density in Shanghai.
Because it is the last few survivors of a dying breed, it has caused some interest for people studying the architectural history of Shanghai. If you now wish to study the history and culture of Shanghai, you should start first with its century-old lane houses.